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Click on one of the topics below to go directly to that section.
Frequently asked questions
--> How can I find your office?
Useful Terms
Related Web Sites
Who's the Man (Tips on how to find the right
contractor)
Operating Costs Depend on the Following Factors
Energy Saving Tips
Employment Opportunities
WHAT ARE YOUR NORMAL OFFICE HOURS?
Our office is open Monday through Friday from 8:00 am till 5:00 pm. However, our service technicians are available 24 hours a day 7 days a week.
HOW MUCH IS A SERVICE CALL?
On residential calls, we charge a $55.00 diagnostic fee for most of the tri-county area. Some of the farther locations are billed at $70.00. On commercial calls, we bill straight time and material. Our service department
personnel will be happy to discuss the fee with you before we come out.
WHAT DOES THE DIAGNOSTIC FEE COVER?
The diagnostic fee covers one of our qualified service technicians coming to your home or business and diagnosing the problem. At that point, you will be given a price to do any needed repairs. The price is determined using a flat rate pricing guide that calculates the labor and material costs needed to make the repair.
DO YOU HAVE A SERVICE OR MAINTENANCE CONTRACT?
Yes, we provide annual maintenance contracts for both our residential and commercial customers.
WHAT DOES A MAINTENANCE CONTRACT COVER?
For residential customers, our maintenance contract provides them a pre-season cooling check, a pre-season heating check, priority dispatching for any additional service calls and 10% off any needed
repairs during the year. For commercial customers, our maintenance contracts can be individually designed to meet their diversified needs. Many of our commercial contracts include filter changes, numerous clean and checks and routine inspections to satisfy local, state and federal requirements.
WHAT DOES A MAINTENANCE CONTRACT COST?
Our residential maintenance contracts are $120.00 for one system, and $60.00 for each additional system. Our commercial maintenance contracts, due to the varying needs, are priced on an individual basis. Please call for a quote!
HOW MUCH IS AN ADD-ON OR REPLACEMENT QUOTE?
Our estimates to install new systems in homes and offices, with and without existing systems, are free. This estimate will include an inspection of the structure (insulation, weather stripping, windows, etc.), a ductwork inspection, electrical or gas inspection, a customer feedback session and a written estimate.
HOW LONG DO CENTRAL HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEMS LAST?
The average life expectancy of most equipment manufactured today is between 12 and 15 years. Top quality brands will tend to last closer to 15 years, while other brands will tend to last between 10 and 12 years. Duct systems can last anywhere from 5 to 25 years depending on the construction materials used and the quality with which it was installed. Lack of maintenance and proximity to salt air and water can greatly reduce the life span of your system.
HOW DO I KNOW WHEN IT'S TIME TO REPLACE MY SYSTEM RATHER THAN HAVE IT REPAIRED?
Our general role is that if it costs 40 percent, or more, of the replacement cost to repair your equipment you should seriously consider replacing the equipment. Quite often, equipment that is 7 or 8 years old is costing you money on a monthly basis to operate due to new higher efficiency equipment that is available today. The extended warranty you receive with the purchase of new equipment is a factor to consider also.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO HAVE NEW EQUIPMENT INSTALLED?
Most replacement jobs can be completed in 1 or 2 days. It can take a bit longer if additional ductwork, electrical, gas line or other work is required. Homes and offices with no existing system can normally be completed in 4-6 days. Once again, additional work may extend the time frame by a few days.
WHAT BRANDS OF EQUIPMENT DO YOU SERVICE?
Our service technicians are qualified to service and repair all major brands.
WHAT BRANDS OF EQUIPMENT DO YOU INSTALL?
95% of the units we install are Carrier and Trane, recognized around the world as industry leaders. However, we can install any brand if you have a particular need or desire for it.
WHY WOULD I NEED AN EXTENDED WARRANTY?
Carrier and Trane manufacture some of the most reliable equipment in the industry, but any mechanical component is occasionally subject to failure. Today's service calls that result in repair bills are expensive. Each year parts and labor costs continue to rise. Presently, the average service call is above $130.00. When you purchase an extended warranty agreement, you don't have to worry about unplanned repairs. For the
term of your agreement, the extended warranty pays the bill for any part replacement. It's a terrific hedge against inflation because you will know your cost for total comfort, up to ten years in advance.
DO YOU ACCEPT CREDIT CARDS?
Yes, we accept VISA, MasterCard and American Express.
DO YOU OFFER FINANCING?
Yes, we offer financing on new and replacement systems, ductwork, IAQ items, extended warranties, service agreements, accessories and even repairs! From time to time, our lenders even have special programs that allow for
no payments for 60 days and no interest for 60 days. Buyers must qualify for financing.
ARE YOU QUALIFIED TO D0 WORK FOR SCE&G AND BERKELEY CO-OP CUSTOMERS?
Yes, we are SCE&G and Berkeley Co-Op quality dealers. We've been very involved with both utilities since their programs inception.
ARE YOU A LICENSED AND INSURED CONTRACTOR?
Yes, we are a state licensed mechanical contractor. We also carry workmen's compensation and liability insurance at all times.
WHAT IS ENERGY STAR?
 Energy Star is a voluntary awareness, communications and marketing campaign developed by the U.S. Department of Energy and Environmental Protection Agency, to promote energy efficiency in a multitude of products, including heating and air conditioning equipment.
HOW CAN I FIND YOUR OFFICE?
Click
here for a locator map.
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AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency) -A rating that reflects the efficiency of a gas ~ furnace in converting fuel to energy. A rating of 90 means that approximately 90 percent of the fuel is utilized to provide warmth to your home or office, while the remaining 10
percent escapes as exhaust out the flue. This rating can range from 80 to 96 percent.
AIR CLEANER -A device used for removing foreign impurities from the air stream.
AIR CONDITIONER -A unit that removes heat and humidity from the indoor air and releases the collected heat into the air outdoors. It also provides the means to clean the air by moving the air in a confined space.
AIR CONDITIONING -Control of the temperature, humidity, air movement and cleaning of air in a confined space.
AIR HANDLER - The inside portion of a heat pump system that contains the evaporator coil, blower assembly and heat strip.
AIRFLOW -The distribution or movement of air.
BTU (British Thermal Unit) -The amount of energy needed to change the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. For your home or office, it represents the measure of heat given
off when fuel is burned for heating or the measure of heat extracted from your home or office for cooling.
BTUH (British Thermal Unit per Hour) -BTU per hour.
CAPACITY -The output or producing ability of a piece of heating or cooling equipment. Heating and cooling capacity are
normally referred to as BTU's or BTUH's. CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) -A standard of airflow measurement. A typical system
produces 400 CFM per ton of air conditioning.
COMPRESSOR -The heart of an air conditioning or heat pump system. The large
(usually black or orange) part in the condenser that pumps refrigerant through the system.
CONDENSER -This is the unit that will sit outside and is part of a split system. It contains the compressor, condenser coil and fan motor.
DB (DECIBEL) - A decibel describes the relative loudness of a sound. Some common sounds are fairly close to a typical air conditioner or heat
pump's sound level: human voice, 7.0 decibels; blender, 8.8 decibels.
DEHUMIDIFICATION -The reduction of water vapor in air by cooling the air below the dew point; removal of water from air by chemical means, refrigeration, etc.
DUCTWORK -Pipes or channels that carry air throughout your home or office. Ductwork is made of sheet metal, fiberglass or flexible plastic, and can be round or rectangular.
EFFICIENCY -A rating on comfort equipment that is similar to the miles per gallon rating on your car. The higher the rating number, the more efficient the system and the higher your energy savings.
EMERGENCY HEAT (Supplementary Heat) -The back up electric heat built into a heat pump system. The same as an auxiliary heater, except it is used exclusively as the heat source when the heat pump needs repairing.
ERV (Energy Recovery Ventilator) -This device pre-heats incoming outside air during the winter and pre-cools incoming air during the summer to reduce the impact of heating or cooling the inside air.
EVAPORATOR COIL -The evaporator coil will produce cooling in the air conditioning mode and heating in the heat mode on a heat pump. It is also where humidity is removed from the system.
FILTER -A device for removing airborne particles from the air.
FREON -Common name for R-22 refrigerant that is used in most residential and small commercial air conditioners and heat pumps manufactured over the last twenty years. It is a member of the HCFC class of refrigerants that are being phased out due to its ozone depleting properties. It is banned from use in all systems manufactured after 2010.
FURNACE -A device that converts gas, oil, electricity or other fuel into heat for distribution within a structure.
GAS PACK -A package unit that utilizes electricity for cooling and natural gas or LP for heating.
HEAT GAIN -The amount of heat gained, measured in BTU's, from a space to be conditioned, at the local summer outdoor design temperature and a specified indoor design condition.
HEAT LOSS -The amount of heat lost, measured in BTU's, from a space to be conditioned, at the local winter outdoor design temperature and a specified indoor design
condition.
HEAT PUMP -A unit that works just like an air conditioner in the cooling cycle. The difference is that a heat pump can reverse the refrigerant flow thereby removing heat from the outdoor air and releasing the collected heat into the air indoors.
HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator) -This device brings fresh, outside air into a home or office while simultaneously exhausting stale indoor air outside. In the process of doing this, an HRV removes heat from the exhaust air and transfers it to the incoming air, pre-heating it.
HSPF (Heating Seasonal Efficiency Ratio) -A rating that measures the heating
efficiency of a heat pump. In layman's terms, the amount of heating your heat pump delivers per every dollar spent on electricity. The higher the number, the more efficient the unit. The industry minimum is now 6.8.
HUMIDIFIER -A device that adds moisture to warm air being circulated or directed into a space.
HUMIDISTAT -A device designed to regulate humidity input by reacting to changes in the moisture content of the air. Much like a thermosta4 but turns the system on and off by sensing the humidity level.
HUMIDITY -The amount of moisture in the air. Air conditioners and heat pumps remove humidity for added comfort.
PACKAGE SYSTEM -A piece of heating and air conditioning equipment where all components are located in one cabinet. Common installations are either beside or on top of the
structure.
PURON -Carrier's brand name for R-410A refrigeran4 which is the new environmentally sound refrigerant. It is a member of the HFC class of refrigerants. Since Puron does not contain chlorine, it does not pose a threat to the ozone.
SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) -A rating that measures the cooling efficiency of a heat pump or air conditioner. In layman's terms, the amount of cooling your equipment delivers per every dollar spent on electricity. The industry minimum is now 10.0. The higher the number, the more efficient the unit.
SPLIT SYSTEM -Refers to a system configuration consisting of components in two locations. Common examples include an outside unit, such as an air conditioner, and an indoor uni4 such as a furnace and coil.
SUPPLY AIR -The airflow entering the conditioned space.
THERMOSTAT -A temperature sensitive switch for controlling the operation of a heating and air conditioning system. Typically found on a wall inside the home or business, it monitors and controls the functions of a heating and air conditioning system.
TON -A unit of measurement used for determining cooling capacity. One ton is the equivalent of 12,000 BTU's per hour. The number of tons a system has is the total BTU capacity of the system.
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Local Better Business Bureau www.bbb.org/bureaus
Federal Trade Commission www.ftc.gov
U.S. Department of Energy www.doe.gov
Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Institute www.ari.org
American Gas Association www.aga.org
Environmental Protection Agency www.epa.gov Back
to top Who's the Man
(Tips on how to find the right contractor)
- Check credentials. Call the Better Business Bureau to make sure the dealer is reputable. Find out what associations the dealer is a member of.
- The dealer should be affiliated with a nationally known manufacturer. The reason: many dealers take advantage of factory training to help you determine your comfort
needs. As a result, when they make recommendations, you can be more assured they have selected the right system for your home.
- Ask for references. Former customers are an excellent source of information. Call these individuals and ask if they were pleased with the dealer's work.
- Expect an on-site evaluation visit. A good dealer should take a personal, thorough
look at your home, evaluate your overall comfort needs and recommend the best system for you. Beware of a dealer that simply takes
information from you over the phone.
- Check local licenses. Depending on where you live, the dealer may have to comply with certain local or state regulations, so ask to see any applicable state and local licenses and insurance
forms for liability and workmen's compensation.
- Don't be afraid to ask questions. Ask for details about the firm's experience, its long- term stability and the expertise of its staff. This is especially true if you're adding air conditioning to an existing home where ductwork must be added. In this case, experience
is a factor since it will take more thought, planning and know-how to get the job done.
- Get a cost estimate. To make a fair comparison, be sure the bids you are looking at include the services you've requested and are based on the same size and efficiency equipment and the same quality of workmanship. Be wary of a dealer who offers unrealistically low prices; it may mean comers are being cut in crucial areas.
- Inquire about equipment and labor warranties. Warranties vary according to manufacturers. Make sure the dealer explains the terms of your warranty and that you understand it. In addition, many manufacturers offer extended warranties, which you may be wise to investigate.
- Inquire about preventative maintenance service contracts. Many dealers offer service contracts that call for periodic maintenance of equipment and, if needed, repairs. The fee for such contracts is usually well worth it in terms of obtaining optimum efficiency and performance from your system.
- Finally, insist on a written contract. Commit your agreement to writing and have the dealer sign it Make sure model numbers, start date, finish date, warranty and payment terms are listed. Your
home's indoor comfort is important Don't gamble with it by selecting an air conditioning dealer by chance.
Back to top Operating
Costs Depend on the Following Factors
- The size and efficiency rating of the heating and air conditioning system.
- The cost of electricity and other fuels.
- The climate in our area.
- Horne insulation and weather stripping.
- Location of home or office in relation to the sun and shade.
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- Weather strip all doors and windows. Make sure all doors and windows shut
properly
- Install drapes, blinds or curtains whenever possible
- Insulate walls, attics and floors up to current codes
- Plant trees and shrubs to provide shade for the structure and outside
units
- Ensure attics are properly ventilated
- Find a comfortable thermostat setting and leave it alone. Each degree raised for cooling or lowered for heating reduces energy consumption by
3%-4%
- Keep any outside units clear of shrubbery, grass and weeds so that the flow of air through the unit is not
obstructed
- Whenever possible, cook in the early morning or late afternoon hours.
- Replace or clean the air filters as needed, generally every 30 days
- Have an AC Heating & Air Conditioning "Energy Saving Service Agreement" in
place
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We
are always looking for qualified technicians, installers, sheet metal
workers and other individuals that are interested in working for a company
that is growing. Call or drop by for available positions. You may also email
us.
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